Fodor's Expert Review Variety Jones

Unassuming Thomas Street is the last place you'd expect to find a Michelin-starred restaurant, but that's exactly where celebrated chef Keelann Higgs set up shop. Inside, you're greeted by the smell of wood smoke, and the narrow dining room is dominated by an open kitchen where cooking is done over a blazing fire. The menu is short and prix fixe, so you select five to seven dishes. Choosing is the only problem when faced with starters like salt-baked celeriac with grilled cabbage, stout, lardo, and an aged cheddar mousse. The pearl barley risotto with soft egg and crispy shallots is another standout. Finish with the blood orange cake with lemon curd and vanilla creme fraiche. Note: Does not offer a vegetarian menu or dairy-free options.