20 Best Restaurants in Lima, Peru
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Lima has long been a popular destination among foodies, but its dining scene is now hotter than ever. Three of the city's eateries were listed in the World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2017; nine were included in the list of 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America; and the World Travel Awards has named Peru the World's Leading Culinary Destination for five years in a row. When Peru's celebrity chefs Gastón Acurio and Astrid Gutsche moved their flagship Astrid & Gastón to a refurbished colonial mansion called Casa Moreyra, they inaugurated it with a week of activities attended by some of the world's top chefs and restaurant critics, and the reservation book was already filled for the next four months. Luckily, there are other world-class dining options in Lima, and the midranged restaurants are pretty impressive, too.
Central
After years working in some of the best kitchens of Europe and Asia, superstar cuisinier Virgilio Martínez returned to Lima to launch this chic, airy venue for his culinary talents—and quickly garnered a reputation as one of Latin America's best chefs. He and his wife, María Pía Leon, change their menu every six months, but each iteration celebrates the country's edible biodiversity with fresh and often organic ingredients. They offer eight- and 16-course menus, which take your taste buds on a journey through Peru's coastal, Andean, and Amazon regions. The restaurant's new incarnation in Barranco is in every way worthy of its past.
This is currently Lima's hottest restaurant, so reserve tables at least a month in advance.
El Bodegón
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La Mar
Chef Gastón Acurio's reinvention of the traditional cebichería is one of Lima's most popular lunch spots. The décor is minimal, but the menu offers a kaleidoscopic selection of delectable seafood dishes. Start by sharing a degustación de cebiche (various types of fish or seafood marinated in lime juice) or a chalana de causas (various mashed-potato appetizers with seafood-and-mayonnaise fillings). Then try the picante de mariscos (sautéed seafood in a spicy cream sauce) or one of the catches of the day. The servings tend to be large, so you may want to share.
The place doesn't take reservations, so arrive before 1 or you'll wait an hour for a table.
Maido
Brujas de Cachiche
Though its name evokes folklore, "Witches of Cachiche" is an elegant, modern spot that offers variations on traditional Peruvian cuisine. Delicacies include as corvina en salsa de camarones (sea bass in a roasted-crayfish sauce) or cabrito a la norteña (stewed kid). The lunch buffet is an opportunity to sample an array of local dishes. An extensive wine list features top South American vintages.
The cozy bar in back is a good spot for appetizers or a light meal in the early evening, when most restaurants are closed.
El Mercado
El Señorío de Sulco
Owner Isabel Álvarez has authored several cookbooks on traditional Peruvian cuisine, which is the specialty here. Start with one of various cebiches or chupe de camarones (a creamy river-prawn soup) if in season, then move on to arroz con pato (rice and duck with a splash of dark beer) or huatia sulcana (a traditional beef stew).
Weekend lunch buffets offer an excellent opportunity to sample a variety of Peruvian dishes.
Huaca Pucllana Restaurante
The view of the adjacent, 1,500-year-old, pre-Inca ruins is reason enough to dine at Huaca Pucllana, but the sumptuous Peruvian and international cuisine is a close second. The best tables are outside, with a view of the ruins, which are spectacularly floodlit at night.
You can combine dinner with a 40-minute guided tour of the pyramids from 7 to 10 pm, except on Tuesday.
The Peruvian-fusion menu includes treats such as grilled alpaca in a mustard sauce with corn soufflé and paiche (an Amazon fish) with Brazil-nut flakes and a spicy cocona (jungle fruit) sauce.
La Picantería
La Rosa Náutica
This rambling, Victorian-style complex perched over the Pacific at the end of a breakwater serves up quality seafood with spectacular views, complete with surfers riding the waves as the sun goes down. Signature dishes include a mixed fish, scallops, and octopus cebiche, and grilled corvina (sea bass) with a leek fondue sauce. There's also a small but decent selection of meat dishes.
On a sunny afternoon, the restaurant is a great place to watch the sunset.
La Tiendecita Blanca
This old-fashioned Swiss eatery first flung open its doors in 1936, and little has changed since. It still serves a selection of quality European and Peruvian cuisine in a refined atmosphere, with ornately painted wooden details on the doors and along the ceiling that evoke the Old Country. Rösti (grated potatoes with bacon and cheese) and three kinds of fondue are among the traditional Swiss options. The kitchen also offers three-course meals, and the glass case is filled with eye-popping pastries. The front terrace, which faces the busy Óvalo de Miraflores, is a great people-watching spot.
La Trattoria di Mambrino
After a quarter-century in business, this remains one of Lima's best Italian restaurants. The proof is on the plate: dishes such as artichoke ravioli and fettuccine magnífico (with a prosciutto, Parmesan, and white-truffle sauce) are perennial favorites. Be sure to save room for dessert: co-owner Sandra Plevisani is one of the country's most famous pastry chefs. This is one of the few Lima restaurants that serve dinner on Sundays.
Panchita
Situated on a quiet Miraflores side street, and featuring a wood-burning oven and a cozy lounge where locals linger over cocktails late into the evening, this understated eatery serves up comfort food, Gastón Acurio–style. Nearly everything on the menu is good, but standouts include the anticuchos (kebab-like skewers, usually of beef hearts, but here also with more imaginative options such as swordfish) and cochinilla de 21 días, a whole suckling pig with meat so juicy you won’t need the accompanying zarza criolla (pickled onions) Go late at night, when the mood is mellow and romantic.
Pescados Capitales
This vast, whitewashed restaurant with a laid-back vibe is popular with limeños, who flock here for its inventive recipes and fresh seafood. The name is a play on the Spanish term for the seven deadly sins, and gula (gluttony)—think fettuccine with a mix of scallops, shrimp, and squid in a spicy cream sauce—is one of many sins worth committing here. Another is avaricia, or covetousness: the paiche fillet served with tacacho quinoa and the cecina (smoked pork)-and-chonta (heart of palm) salad will have your palate lusting. Forget morality, and just dig in!
Punta Sal
On a sunny afternoon, the view of the malecón and its graceful paragliders from the upper floors of this restaurant is as good as the food—which is excellent. Dishes include classic cebichería fare such as tiradito criollo (thin slices of marinated fish covered in a yellow-pepper sauce), conchitas a la parmesana (scallops on the half-shell smothered in garlic and toasted cheese), or pescado a la chorrillana (fish fillet in a tomato, onion, and chili sauce). Piqueos, platters of appetizers, are fun to share. This place has another, less-crowded (but also less-scenic) location on Avenida Conquistadores in San Isidro.
Arrive before 1 pm to get a window table.
Punto Azul
Rafael
This small corner house seems inconspicuous, but at mealtimes it's invariably packed with foodies feasting on Rafael Osterling's culinary creations. One of Lima's best chefs, Osterling mixes Peruvian, Mediterranean, and Asian influences in a menu brimming with innovation. There are plenty of pastas, such as gnocchi in a shrimp, scallop, and squid pesto, but the eclectic carta ranges from fish curry to roast suckling pig.
If you don't have a reservation, you may be able to grab a small table in the bar.
Restaurante Rigoletto
On a quiet street a block and a half from the busy intersection of Larco and Benavides, this small restaurant in a renovated house is known for its southern-Italian cuisine. The Peruvian owner worked at one of Miami's best Italian eateries before setting up shop in Miraflores. The menu includes pasta dishes such as linguini in pesto with gamberi (shrimp), a small selection of risottos, and a traditional osso buco.
Saqra
The name of this attractive eatery is Quechua for "little devil," which captures well the kitchen's playful take on Peruvian cuisine. Here you'll enjoy smash-up dishes such as gnocchi a la huancaína and panko-crusted prawns with a passion-fruit ginger-pisco sauce. Start with quinoa tabouleh on a tomato pesto with goat cheese, then sink your teeth into adobo arepiqueño (pork loin stewed in a chili sauce) or octopus on an olive risotto. Save room for dessert: the raisin-and-carob-filled bombitas are indeed, the bomb.