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This city is a food lover's town and restaurants abound, from humble kebab joints to fancy fish venues, with a variety of excellent options in between. Owing to its location on the Bosphorus, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, Istanbul is famous for its seafood. A classic Istanbul meal, usually eaten at one of the city's rollicking meyhanes (literally "drinking places"), starts off with a wide selection of tapas-style cold appetizers called meze, then a hot starter or two, and then moves on to a main course of grilled fish, all of it accompanied by the anise-flavored spirit rak?, Turkey's national drink. The waiter will generally bring a tray over to your table to show off the day’s meze and you simply point to what you’d like. Note that the portions you get are often larger than the samples shown on the tray, so don’t over-order; you can always select a second—or third—round later. When it comes to the main course, fish can be expensive, so check prices and ask what's in season before ordering. In Istanbul, fall and winter are the best seasons for seafood.
Istanbul's dining scene, though diverse, was once mostly limited to Turkish cooking, but a new generation of chefs is successfully fusing local dishes with more international flavors and preparations. Some are trained in the United States and Europe and bring home the contemporary culinary techniques they've learned abroad, and the result is a kind of nouvelle Turkish cuisine. Interest in little-known specialty foods and regional dishes from around Turkey is also taking hold, as chefs increasingly look at home, rather than abroad, for inspiration. Over the past few years, a handful of restaurants have opened where the chef-owner defines the vision and personality of the venue—though this may be old hat in Europe or North America, it represents an exciting new trend in Istanbul.
Istanbullus take their eating seriously, holding establishments to a very high standard; they expect their food to be fresh and well prepared at even the most basic of eateries, and are likely to feel that few places can hold a candle to "Mom’s cooking." That said, at restaurants catering to a trendier, more upscale crowd, style sometimes seems to pass for substance, and consistency can be elusive; the fanciest venues may not necessarily offer the best food.
Sultanahmet might have most of the city's major sights and many hotels, but sadly, these places cater mostly to tourists and are the ones most likely to let their standards slip. Save for a few standouts, the area is sorely lacking in good dining options, though you can find some good food if you follow the locals to the no-frills eateries lining Gedik Pa?a Caddesi (near the Beyaz?t tram stop, across Yeniçeriler Caddesi from the entrance to the Grand Bazaar) or to Hoca Pa?a Sokak near the Sirkeci train station. Overall, though, you'll have much better luck if you head across the Golden Horn, where the lively Beyo?lu district has everything from holes in the wall serving delicious home cooking to some of Istanbul's sleekest restaurants, while Karaköy and Galata also have an increasing range of dining options. Or head to some of the small, charming neighborhoods along the Bosphorus, which are famous for their fish restaurants; while these establishments tend to be more upscale and expensive, there are some affordable options as well.
Since Istanbullus love to go out, reservations are essential at most of the city's better restaurants. In summer, many establishments move their dining areas outdoors, and reservations become even more important if you want to snag a coveted outside table. For the most part, dining is casual, although locals enjoy dressing smartly when they're out. You may feel terribly underdressed if you show up in a restaurant dressed in shorts and a T-shirt, even in summer.
Despite Islamic proscriptions against alcohol, beer, wine, and the local spirit rak? are widely available, and at more upscale venues you can also find cocktails. Because of high taxes, however, alcoholic drinks—particularly anything imported—tend to be considerably more expensive than in North America or Europe. The national lager Efes is the most widely available beer; venues may carry two or three other domestic and international labels, but don’t expect a wide selection. Yeni Rak?, a state-run monopoly until not long ago, has remained the most popular rak? brand despite a recent proliferation of new companies producing the spirit. Wine consumption in Turkey has traditionally lagged far behind that of beer and rak?, but that’s been slowly changing in recent years as the quality of local wines has started to improve. The local wine industry is still in its fledgling stages compared to other parts of the world, but there are some very drinkable domestic wines on the market, most priced at only a fraction of what you’d pay for an imported label. Turkish wines are made from foreign grapes as well as indigenous varietals, of which the most noteworthy are the reds Öküzgözü, Bo?azkere, and Kalecik Karas? and the whites Emir and Narince.
During the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, restaurants that cater primarily to tourists, and most venues in cosmopolitan parts of Istanbul such as Beyo?lu, continue to operate normally. In more traditional neighborhoods some restaurants close altogether or change their hours of operation. In recent years, it has become increasingly popular to go to restaurants for iftar—the evening meal that breaks the daily fast—instead of having it in the home, as was traditionally done.
This cozy eatery, a gastronomic gem near İstiklal Caddesi, is the creation of German-Turkish chef Cem Eksi. The seasonal menu, which includes an extensive wine list, branches out beyond Turkish cuisine to explore dishes from the whole Mediterranean region.
With sleek, contemporary decor and a stunning 360-degree view of Istanbul from the top floor of the 18-story Marmara Pera Hotel, Mikla is the dramatic setting for prestigious American-trained Turkish-Finnish chef Mehmet Gürs's modern Anatolian cuisine. Sophisticated dishes of domestically sourced ingredients offer unique flavor combinations rarely seen in traditional Turkish cuisine, such as grilled dentex (a Mediterranean fish) served with olives, charred red peppers, and pistachio puree or a dessert of sour-cherry compote with bulgur wheat and lor cheese (similar to ricotta).
Rising chef Civan Er puts a unique and contemporary twist on traditional Turkish dishes, using ingredients sourced from local producers in different regions of the country. The menu consists mainly of small plates that offer innovative flavor combinations, as in sweet-and-sour kısır (tabbouleh) made with a sour-cherry infusion or spicy, rustic sucuk sausage with walnuts served atop borlotti bean puree.
A casual café by day and an inviting bistro venue by night, stylish Aheste (meaning "slowly" in Persian) offers a small but appealing menu consisting mainly of hot and cold meze with some Persian, Ottoman, and Middle Eastern influences with contemporary twists; the sea beans with smoked yogurt and rose petals and the wild rice with currants and herbs are particularly tasty. Prices are a bit high, but the friendly, laid-back service and hip-yet-cozy atmosphere make up for it.
Housed in one of Kadıköy’s historic Moda apartment buildings, Aida’s dimly lit coziness brings the feeling of an Italian bistro to Istanbul. The Italian chef creates authentic cuisine, and some nights, there is live piano music to accompany dinner.
Tucked away on a quiet street in Balat, this sophisticated restaurant is best known for its creative take on local seafood, with impeccably plated dishes that draw on seasonal ingredients. The multifloor building opens up to a rooftop with views over the neighborhood.
Fitting for a restaurant housed in the Çırağan Palace, dinner here is a refined, luxurious affair, with formal service, rich Ottoman and Turkish specialties, and one of the most high-end wine lists in Turkey (Chateau Pétrus, anyone?). The pricey menu features cold and hot meze, and entrées emphasize fish and meat dishes, such as in the signature külbastı, lamb escalope served with pureed eggplant.
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