You've just got to love this newly renovated shoebox-size place—for the noise, the intimacy, the complete absence of pretense, and, above all, the Sicilian-style seafood, which proved so popular, it spawned two other locations (one in Brookline and another in Boston's Seaport area). With garlic and olive oil forming the foundation for almost every dish, this cheerful, bustling spot specializes in calamari, black squid-ink pastas, and linguine with clam sauce, all served in the skillets in which they were cooked, hot from the stove. Check the chalkboard, which is always loaded with freshly caught specials, but consider the Lobster fra Diavolo for two—lobster chunks, shrimp, calamari, littlenecks, mussels in a "spicy" seafood tomato sauce served over linguine. Compact and brightly lighted, this storefront restaurant has been a local staple for almost 50 years and for good reason.