Adega Regional Quelha
The restaurants along or near Rua 31 de Janeiro may have river views, but they don't necessarily serve the best food. This ham-and-garlic-bedecked place—off a square at the end of the main street—has no views, but the regional fare served on its wooden tables make it worth a trip. Regular dishes include cozido à portuguesa (a sausage, bean, and vegetable stew), cabrito assado (roasted kid), and tripas (tripe and beans), most available as a full dose (serving) that's enough for two people or a meia (half) dose. If you're planning on dinner, come early because the small space fills up fast.