Day of the Dead???

Old Dec 4th, 2023, 10:46 AM
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I've wanted to visit Mexico during the Day of the Dead for many years -- this year we finally had the dates free, but didn't go. I had left it much too late to find accommodations in Patzcuaro or Oaxaca. I also had second thoughts about trooping through cemeteries with the hordes of other visitors. I thought I'd feel pretty uncomfortable and intrusive. Then I had the idea of finding a place off the beaten track to observe the day, but thought that might be even more bothersome for the locals, unused to tourists. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Old Dec 4th, 2023, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Fra_Diavolo
. . . I had the idea of finding a place off the beaten track to observe the day, but thought that might be even more bothersome for the locals, unused to tourists. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
In my post (#3) above I’ve linked my Day of the Dead experience. The cemetery was full of families observing the occasion & it would never have occurred to me to walk among them. Though feeling like a voyeur, I stood at a couple of places on the street at the edge to take a few pictures. It was all so beautiful & I just tried to be as inconspicuous as possible. I didn’t delude myself that people were unaware I was there but since there were very few of us observing & I didn’t stay too long I seemed to be tolerated. I think the key is to take cues from the people one is observing & just leave if you feel your time is up.

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Old Dec 4th, 2023, 06:01 PM
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It is not only at the cemetery. Nor any reason you'd have go to "trooping though" them at an inappropriate time. You would likely see commemorative altars, displays of marigolds, other traditionals without bothering anyone. But I have never been "off the beaten path" to observe the holiday. Only quite a few times in Puerto Vallarta. There I've seen performances of folklorique ballet special to the holiday, youth mariachi band, pan (bread) tastings, etc. that were not made for tourists but were not personal to a family either.
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Old Dec 4th, 2023, 07:23 PM
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Crellston, both Tolantongo & the Mineral del Monte area are accessible by/with public transportation. For Tolantongo, a bus (from wherever) to Ixmiquilpan is the first leg. Then local transportation from there I think their website I linked gives details on local transport. If it was me going to Tolantongo, I'd spend a night in Ixmiquilpan and then transfer the next morning or early afternoon. Get your hotel, stash your luggage and enjoy the hot springs until check in. The hotels there don't take reservations. Ixmiquilpan isn't a Pueblo Mágico, but probably could be someday.
For Mineral del Monte, take a bus to Pachuca and then taxi or colectivo up the mountain. It's only about 15 minutes by taxi. Colectivos or taxis to Huasca or Chico from Monte.
If you do end up investigating an alternative DOD location, I often use Mexico Desconocido for travel ideas. None of these in the link may appeal or even work for you, but there are plenty of areas besides Oaxaca & Patzcuaro to observe the event(s), and some may even be considered more 'authentic' due to the popularity of the aforementioned and inevitable commercial & secular influences due to such popularity.
https://www.mexicodesconocido.com.mx...s-muertos.html

Last edited by bald0ne; Dec 4th, 2023 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Fra_Diavolo
I've wanted to visit Mexico during the Day of the Dead for many years -- this year we finally had the dates free, but didn't go. I had left it much too late to find accommodations in Patzcuaro or Oaxaca. I also had second thoughts about trooping through cemeteries with the hordes of other visitors. I thought I'd feel pretty uncomfortable and intrusive. Then I had the idea of finding a place off the beaten track to observe the day, but thought that might be even more bothersome for the locals, unused to tourists. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Upsetting the locals is always a concern and I guess this would be more of an issue in the smaller villages and larger towns. I am clearly no expert on DDM issues and etiquette but sensitivity is always key. If it feels uncomfortable, then you are probably in the wrong place and the wrong time. Personnally I am more interested in the parade etc than viewing private family ceremonies in cemeteries.

My understanding (and I could be barking up the wrong tree) is that DDM is more a cause for celebration than sadness . We did something similar in Sulawesi Indonesia where the "funerals" are very much a big party - some photos on our blog @ https://accidentalnomads.com/2017/07...raja-funerals/
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 01:16 AM
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Many thanks Baldone, exceedingly helpful as always.

Priority is to see if I can sort out accomodation with VRBO in Oaxaca. If not then DDM will be somewhere else and we will visit Oaxaca before or after DDM week when rates are no long 3-4 x the norm.
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 05:07 AM
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Thanks for sharing your experiences and opinions. Perhaps I've had the wrong idea about the day all along!
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 06:37 AM
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crellston, if 2024 doesn't work out, in 2025 you are invited to return again to Los Angeles. With our huge Mexican and Mexican-American population, there are many community Dia De Los Muertos celebrations.
https://www.timeout.com/los-angeles/day-of-the-dead

MOLAA (Museum of Latin American Art) in Long Beach always has a community event around that time.
https://molaa.org/events/2023/diadelosmuertos

You often see offrendas at local restaurants and my friends create them at home and in their offices.

Nelson I felt every one of those speed bumps from the back row of a Sprinter.

Last edited by mlgb; Dec 5th, 2023 at 06:57 AM.
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 12:48 PM
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There were about 30 Catrinas on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta this year. The tallest lady winning the Guinness World Book of Records.
https://www.vallartadaily.com/puerto...with-grandeur/

She was not my favorite though, I was most in love with a mermaid in a hammock with a pirate treasure box under her. But the Malecon (seawall promonade) displays in PV were stunning.

Also the memorative altars set up around the civic buildilng in front of the church.

I am not trying to talk you out of going to villlages if that is your interest. But if the focus is observing Day of the Dead celebrations you have many different options. Some perhaps where you might feel more fitting in.

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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 11:16 PM
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Mlgb, Thanks for the invitation, but 2025 is reserved for a visit to our Australian family in Sydney ( and maybe a side trip to one of the Pacific Islands). A return to West Coast USA was a contender for this year, but Mexico won in the end. (I have always liked the idea of doing what Tdiddy is doing visiting the National Parks by campervan.)
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Old Dec 7th, 2023, 05:25 PM
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Oh well, the Viking will be missing you then.

There was a small article in Mexico News Daily (basically a checklist) of sites around the Puuc Route near Uxmal.

https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/e...oliday-season/
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Old Dec 8th, 2023, 12:57 AM
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A travel memory that will forever remind me of LA I wonder if he is still riding around downtown?

Thanks for linking that article , I was wondering what Ruta Puuc was all about! I think I have come to the conclusion to abandon my idea of DDM in Oaxaca, partly on the grounds of cost and partly because I have been told by people who have visited at that time that it is jammed packed with tourists and getting taxis , tours and restaurant can be very difficult.

The current plan is to spend a few days in Mexico City on arrival, head to Guanjuato for a few days (probably with our nieces) and then go with Baldone's suggestion of Mineral del Monte etc. (looking forward to see how my ancestors did in exporting pasties from Cornwall and converting them into Empanandas From there we will most likely fly to Merida and base ourselves in the city for DMM (with a few day trips) and then use your routes a basis to spend a couple of nights here and there visiting some of that places you mentioned like Celestun , Calakamul etc. .

After that we will most like head to Oaxaca for 4-5 days and take advantage of the much lower accommodation rates to stay somewhere nicer at the end of the trip. Our final night or two will either be back in CDMX or perhaps Puebla before our flight home.

I did think of heading from Merida to Oaxaca via Palenque but currently that looks too difficult. As far as I can tell so far, to fly between the two requires a connection in MEX or a 20 hour bus journey (too much even for me!). Next job is to look into flying Cancun to Oaxaca which may work as I am increasingly coming to the conclusion that we will rent a car in Yucatan and, if so, perhaps do a one way from Merida to Cancun.

Baldone - how many nights would you suggest for Mineral de Monte? I currently have 4 nights pencilled in but 3 would probably work better logistically.

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Old Dec 8th, 2023, 09:14 AM
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"how many nights would you suggest for Mineral de Monte?" We were there ~15 years ago and spent 2 nights which was plenty for us. There wasnt a lot then, a nice downtown and we visited the mines. It was devoid of any tourists when we were there. This was when we were still working and did travel faster than we do now. I imagine we would be fine with 3 days there the way we travel these days, which is very slowly. Also maybe its changed since out visit?
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Old Dec 9th, 2023, 06:03 PM
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I also think 3 days would be fine. That'd give you time in Chico and Huasca, although as I mentioned Huasca is charming but sleepy mid-week. The Prismas are interesting and worth a visit.
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Old Dec 10th, 2023, 01:13 AM
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Thanks guys. Three days it is. Where to base for those three days? You suggested "monte" above but on google maps I am seeing Real del Monte and Mineral del Monte - I am confused, are they one and the same?

I think I have finally decided to skip Oaxaca for DDM and base in Merida for the celebration and used that as a based. The itinerary now looks something like this:
  • 3 Mexico City
  • 3 Guanajuato
  • 3 Monte?
  • 9 Merida
  • 6 Oaxaca
  • 1 Mexico City (airport hotel)
Struggling a bit with the transport logistics. Neither google maps nor Rome2Rio seem particularly helpful. I cant find direct flights from Merida to Oaxaca which surprised me, so it looks like a connection in MEX. I looked at flying Cancun- MEX but those flights also seem to route via MEX.

As an aside, I checked out the AI bot on the Expedia App to consider a route around the Yucatan - V impressed! If AI really catches on then it could well cause the demise of travel forums!
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Old Dec 10th, 2023, 06:00 AM
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I cant find direct flights from Merida to Oaxaca which surprised me, so it looks like a connection in MEX. I looked at flying Cancun- MEX but those flights also seem to route via MEX.
I am flying Volaris Oaxaca to Merida. They also offer Merida to Oaxaca. Be aware they changed my flight by TWO days without notifying me so if you book with them, check your flights. Your dates may be too far out for a schedule from them just yet. I think I had to wait when I was planning.

Last edited by yestravel; Dec 10th, 2023 at 06:20 AM.
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Old Dec 10th, 2023, 08:59 AM
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" I am seeing Real del Monte and Mineral del Monte - I am confused, are they one and the same?"
Yes, they are. Real/Mineral del Monte has the best selection of hotels.
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Old Dec 10th, 2023, 09:37 AM
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Thanks Baldone.

Thanks for the heads up Yestravel! I got fed with that in Argentina! I had one flight which was direct from Salta to Iguazu. They changed it six times in as many weeks! Our direct 2 hour flight eventually ended up being indirect via BA taking 8 hours and on a different day! After that we started going by bus!

I checked again on different days and found Volaris flights form Merida to Oaxacathere are some direct flights but seemingly not every day and they seem a few weeks away from releasing flights for November. I may have to come up with a plan B!
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Old Dec 10th, 2023, 09:47 AM
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Correct on the Volaris flights- they dint run every day.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2024, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bald0ne
My amigo relayed the following. He says that there are a dozen or so indigenous communities, not to mention the zapatista's, in Chiapas which you probably know. But each community has their own laws & so-called police forces, independent of Army, State, Municipal police or Guardia Nacional. Which you probably know too. None of which are allowed to intervene in local disputes except by invitation. The various groups will erect blockades, at random, to control entry & exit to/from the various communities. Might last an hour, a day or a weekend. Or maybe just charge a toll. Or no movement at any price. 2 cartels are wrangling for control of the region, the Sinaloa & Jalisco New Generation. The blockades disrupt their overland flow of 'product' through the region, so they resort to gunfire. There are a couple of Facebook groups with updates on blockages in the area, 'Bloqeuos Carrerteros Chiapas' & 'Grupo de Alertas Chiapas' Which may prove useful in your planning. He reports there have been blockades along the San Cris-Palenque highway for about a month now. He had planned on visiting the Lacandones in the rain forest prior to Muertos but that's now out of the question, according to his 'informant' in San Cris. She lives there (San Cris) but deals in indigenous art & the like produced in those communities so as such is pretty well informed. No reports of unsavory activity in San Cris proper, except for some gunplay several months back. If it were my trip, I'd probably have no qualms about visiting and staying in San Cris. But outlying areas might give me pause right now. We were there years ago before moving to Mexico. We rented a car and drove to Palenque & Comitán. Even then, some 15 or so years ago, there were mild roadblocks on the Palenque highway for tolls. Beautiful area and Palenque is a fascinating archeological site. That's what I know and can relate. I trust my contact's info.
Hi Baldone,
I am trying to finally nail down our itinerary for our November trip. I think I am more or less there apart from a couple of sections one of which is whether or not to include Palenque. Does your friend have any further info on the current situation in Chiapas? We would be getting to Palenque from either Merida or Campeche either by rental car or by Ado Bus. From Palenque we would fly back to CDMX from Villahermosa

mlgb

In one of your posts, I think you suggested that Palenque may not be necessary if going to Uxmal - have I got that right? If so, we would probably have time for another location- Calakmul perhaps?
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