mlgb

Congrats on the flights. I agree with Carolyn, Puebla was a favorite of mine. I enjoyed exploring a bit outside of the tourist center. How many days were you there last time?

Some day I will get to Merida. For a major Mayan ruin that is easy to access, I would consider Uxmal rather than Palenque. Maybe nonstop flights to Merida? Check to see if Volaris is offering it from Oaxaca. If yes, fly one way from OAX then return flight to MEX.
From Merida, I think I've mentioned we stayed at the inexpensive Uxmal Resort Maya which has a nice outdoor pool (even if February it was hot enough to use year round). Two nights there gives a full day at the ruins, or one night as it's not terribly far from Merida. I think you'd be able to do it by taxi or bus rather than a tour. Note into November can still be rainy season in the Yucatan. The evening Sound and Light show was well worthwhile. It was Spanish only when we went. After the ruins and days around Merida, it's relatively easy to get to the coast north or west of there. I think you would like Celestun. And yess you do need to do the flamingo boat tour...

My second to favorite photo from that trip

Fra_Diavolo

Just wanted to say that something called the Tren Maya https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tren_Maya is supposed to start operating soon between Cancun and Palenque.

As far as Puebla, I've visited once, found it pleasant and the food good. No desire to go back, though I'd have no objections other than "been there."

mlgb

The construction of Tren Maya is not going quite as quickly as AMLO would like. The only section expected to start operation next month, is not near Palneque. Stay tuned.

An environmental disaster.

bald0ne

Clive, let me see if I've got your itinerary straight. Looks like you'll have 2-3 days or so near cdmx to play with in addition to your time in the Big City? Then, 10 days after Oaxaca before departing?
As far as Holbox goes, for a number of years before moving here, we would often combine Holbox with Isla Mujeres. That was back in the 90's. It was pretty rustic & sleepy back then, and I daresay still relatively undiscovered. But you felt like you were at the end of the world there on the tip of the Yucatan. Fast forward to four years ago. We took a nostalgic trip to Isla Mujeres. It'd been probably 25 years since we'd been there. The island had suffered massive changes since then and not for the better, imo. I imagine Holbox has experienced the same. I remember reading about how the sanitation infrastructure gets overwhelmed at times, with septic systems overflowing into the sand streets. Supposedly that's been addressed. Holbox now has it's own sub-forum on TA. Ugh. As Don Henley sang, 'call some place paradise, kiss it good-bye'.

crellston

"Clive, let me see if I've got your itinerary straight." It would be a miracle if you have because my head is spinning. A side affect of covid for me seems to have been a loss of my travel planning mojo!

Here is my provisional itinerary so far. Not yet sure when we will meet up with the nieces yet as they only just started on there gap year on Wednesday and are currently experiencing culture shock in Bangkok! Oh to be 21 again! I am guessing that it will be in Oaxaca where we may well rent a house or apartment for us all (my BIL and SIL will likely going us for part of the trip) and/or

19/10 London - Madrid
20/10 Madrid - Mexico City
21/10 Mexico City
22/10 Mexico City
23/10 Guanjuato
24/10 Guanjuato
25/10 Guanjuato
26/10 Guanjuato
27/10 Puebla/Taxco/??
28/10 Puebla/Taxco/??
29/10 Puebla/Taxco/??
30/10 Oaxaca
31/10 Oaxaca
1/11 Oaxaca
2/11 Oaxaca
3/11 Oaxaca
4/11 Oaxaca
5/11 Yucatan
6/11 Yucatan
7/11 Yucatan
8/11 Yucatan
9/11 Yucatan
10/11 Yucatan
11/11 Yucatan
12/11Yucatan
13/11 Yucatan
14/11 Yucatan
15/11 Mexico City
16/11 Madrid/Toledo
17/11 Toledo
18/11 Madrid /London

None of these places, the order, or the times allocated, are set in stone and I am open to suggestions.

We haven't been to the Yucatan before and I am looking at either touring around following in your footsteps mlgb or, using Merida as a base + day trips or a combination thereof. Thoughts? Interesting comments re Holbox? Isla de Muerjes - I feared as much. Not interested is massive resort type places, small and local (with cheap lobster!) would be great but I fear I travel in hope rather than expectation.

We loved the vibe of Guanjuato but other towns may have that to a greater or lesser degree.

In Mexico City , I think we missed one or two key places but I am really viewing there as a place to fly in and out of and fit in what can when there.

From my research Oaxaca seems to be one of the top venues for DDM and is my first choice and from what I see so far on booking.com, the prices, even this far out, reflect that. Ouch! I many have to have a plan B - Morelia was a fun town in the run up to xmas. Worth considering for DDM? San Cristobal is another option as I understand the surrounding villages are big on DDM celebrations. I wasn't that keen when we were there before as I found it quite touristy but maybe we just went to the wrong places?

As far as DDM dates are concerned, from what I see, those dates are the most likely as they span a weekend but I am guessing wherever we go, booking accommodation early is essential and probably buses and flights too.

How about car rental in Mexico? I have read some conflicting reports on the subject some saying it is fine, others, don't do it and expect to be stopped and "fined" by police. I have driven all over the world so the driving itself is no problems but security seems to be an issue in some places (as mention by baldone around San Cristobal ). I had a drink with a Mexican friend here in London and his experience was to be stopped and hassled by police fairly regularly but he did say that could be because he is Mexican and tourists may fare differently.


Any help would be appreciated

mlgb

Not able to advise on driving other than Yucatan State is considered safe. This is different than Chiapas or Quintano Roo State. Our driver (the famous "Tino") spoke Mayan which if you go down toward Chetumal and cut across to the west side is likely a big asset.

In Villahermosa we stayed at the Hyatt Regency, it was our last night. Our routing to Palenque was on Hwy 186 and then Hwy 199. Hwy 307 akaCaretera Fronteriza del Sur was the route we used from Palenque to Yaxchilan. That would be one side trip I would want to vet when down there. There is a restaurant/hotel along the way called Valle Escondido which seems to be the spot to have breakfast and lunch along the route. I recall you needed to contact them to be sure they could accommodate. Because we were on tour it was not an issue. It looks to be connected to a hotel called Resort Yokib or Finca Vallescondido, which you can see on Google Maps and booking.com. We only ate there.

Note that our route was a combo bird/ruin tour so we skipped many sights of general interest such as cenotes, markets and museums. On a few stretches there was nowhere to eat so the famous Tino made the best every tuna sandwiches. A man of many talents! I forget how many times he had been married but it was either 3 or 4...

mlgb

My reply appears to have disappeared. I made comments on the routing to Palenque and Yaxchilan, mentioned the place where we ate on the way there. If you think you will go to Yaxhchilan let me know and I'll give you the contact details. Noted that our driver made us tuna salad sandwiches two days for lunch when we were away from towns or the major ruins.

I also mentioned that I have never driven in Mexico.

Maybe my computer was acting up, or I got distracted and didn't hit Save Changes, or SWMNBN was having a bad day.

yestravel

I have always wanted to to go to Mex for the Day of the Dead, but never made it there. Have you been to Lake Patzcuaro? That's where I thought they have great celebrations and thought would be fun to go for Day of the Dead.

We have driven lots of times all over Mexico and never had an issue. Once we turned into a bus lane and got pulled over. Alan thought the cop wanted a bribe, but Alan just stood there and acted like he didn't understand Spanish. Finally the cop let him go. We have always been super careful as to what is going on in a area that we have driven into.

We were in Taxco many years ago and it was ok, but it doesn't stand out as a great place -- perhaps its changed.

We will be in Merida for a week and then will get a car and drive around the Yucatan for 6-7 days this February. It seems to me there is lots to do in or right near Merida, but I'll find out.

crellston

Thats weird mlgb. I did actually read your response as it popped up in my inbox and I clicked the link and there it was. I sometimes (actually quite often) get the email, click the link and find no post on the site but those are usual new posters, trolls or advertising.

crellston

Hi Yestravel. Yes, we spent 5 days in Patzcuarao on our previous trip and loved it. Apparently the celebrations there are even more impressive than Oaxaca so I discounted that as the accommodation is even harder to book than Oaxaca! Still struggling to find decent quality accommodation at anything like a reasonable price as a lot seems to be fully booked even this far out. There is a possibility that family may be joining us for that part of the trip so I may have to go look at VRBO or Airbnb. Problem is that once booked , that's it, cancelation is v difficult! Plan B could be San Cristobal or Morelia or somewhere else. Travel planning never used to be this hard I am sure!

Would love to hear of your experience and plans in Merida/Yucatan. Having plotted mlgb's tour locations on google maps I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that a rental car is the only way to go. Too hard by public transport and we do love a road trip!

yestravel

Right now all I have for the Yucatan is an apt in Merida for the week. Than staying in a hotel in Valladolid for 3 nights and then back to outside the city of Merida in a hotel for 3 nights. Havent really planned exactly where we will go from the locations with our car. But stay tuned --

mlgb

Interesting crellston, SWMNBN must have thought I was a troll. Or something....)

crellston

Probably the tuna sandwich reference that did it!

mlgb

Shame about Chiapas. Uxmal is well worth the effort and is close enough to Merida that people go for the day. Yucatan and Campeche where Calakmul is located both have the US State Department seal of approval "exercise normal precautions".

That said, I think 3 nights in Uxmal wouldn't be too many. Uxmal Maya Resort on booking.com. Not obvious from the photos is the distant view of the ruins from the back side (they must be called the Pool View rooms). Restaurant was quite good, especially when they had a breakfast buffet. Plus just for you crellston, maybe there are bikes on offer! (At least not horses).

Tdiddy12

Hey Crellston! I think you will be happy with Oaxaca for DOD. We are headed there in a month for two weeks. We loved it there. I don't know how expensive it would be to fly to Hualtuco from Oaxaca, but we were there last winter and had a good time. It is a FONTUR resort as Baldone mentioned, but not like some of the others. Did some OK snorkeling. They had an earthquake there a couple of years ago and it raised the reef so some of it is not in good shape. Enjoy Mexico. We are there for three months starting Jan. 8th!

mlgb

Three months Tdiddy12!! I can never handle more than 4 weeks away at a time.

PS re Yucatan I noticed on Mexico News Daily that the airport in Tulum is now open (for domestic flights). Might be an alternative for beginning or ending a Yucatan tour.

crellston, yes tuna sandwich or "married at 3 or 4 times". Funny that a friend going with a different group than I did (I think in 2021) had the same guide/driver combo. T is very memorable

mlgb

Codz Poop, Kabah, south of Uxmal. (My favorite ruin name)



​​​​​​Uxmal

bald0ne

I'm gonna put these places out there for part between Guanajuato & Oaxaca and near cdmx. At least semi-near.
Queretaro & Bernal. Can't remember if you've been. Or:
Grutas de Tolantongo. But only if you could go during the week. Or:
Mineral del Chico, Real de monte & Huasca De Ocampo. All very close to each. Base in Monte. For your mountains fix. Monte has plenty of silver, albeit not like Taxco. Trip reports from the 2 areas. If you haven't seen them.
Grutas Tolantongo | Un Oasis A Su Alcance (Página Oficial)
Mineral Del Chico 41st anniversary trip
Hidalgo limited trip report
If something like the aforementioned would work, you can bus from Pachuca to Puebla before moving on to Oaxaca. Then fly to Merida. I think Vivaaerobus has a direct flight from OAX to MDI. You might have to shave a day or 2 off of Yucatan.
Speaking of the Yucatan, mlgb is correct in that we've not explored the area much. Years ago on an Isla Mujeres trip, we fit in Tulum & PDC. Coincidentally, just yesterday we were talking about a trip to Merida; never been. I'd love to drive, but I think it's just too far. Gotta find flights from either bjx or QRO. So I'm following that part of your thread.

crellston

Thanks for that Baldone. Those places certainly look interesting and seem as though they could fit in to what I have vaguely planned so far. Presumably a rental car would eb the way to go to get around those places or is public transports doable? Loved the description of the reasoning behind the "invention" of the emapanada. A similar tale that was recounted to me many times as I sat in my late (Cornish) grandmothers kitchen whilst she made Cornish pasties. She would have no doubt told everyone that they were invented in Cornwall and exported to the rest of the world by the migrant Cornish tin miners.

As alluded to previously , our preferred location for DDM is/was Oaxaca but reasonably priced accomodation seems re rare as hens teeth there. I have found that VRBO may provide a viable alternative to hotels or hostels especially if we are joined by family. Prices and availability seem good but if that doesn't work out then another location for DDM may be necessary. Would still aim to get to Oaxaca but a few dummy booking on Expedia etc showed rates for the weeks in October and Nov either side of the DDM week at a third or the rate! The rates hikes don't seem happening elsewhere in place like Merida, Morelia Guanjuato etc.

Nelson

Don't know if this is useful info or not, you may already know, but: one danger we learned of when driving around Quintana Roo 10 years ago were the topes (speed bumps). There is sometimes / usually a warning sign, but if that sign is missing and you hit one at a reasonable speed you could tear out your oil pan, or some other low hanging fruit.

There was one in particular, on the road to Mahahual, that was really bad. Fortunately, my wife was driving slowly at that point, looking for our turn, but we could see numerous gouges on it where other folks were not so lucky.

Also, when visiting the Maya site Chocchoben, we learned that showing up after lunch is when the tour groups had departed, and we had the place to ourselves.