TorontoEddy

Just finished 3 weeks traveling 1600 km from Holguin to Varadero by way of Mayari, Santiago, Sierra Maestra, Pilon, Bayamo, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Playa Giron and Playa Larga. 750 Km cycling, 470 km Viazul bus and the rest by taxi. Had not booked ahead as I wasn't sure how far I could get each day so toggled between Hotels, Air BnB's and Casas Particulars. Prior to setting out, a lot of people questioned the wisdom of traveling to Cuba considering "food shortages" and "the political situation" and expressed concern for my safety. None of this was ever an issue. No one is starving in Cuba and although people are frustrated with inflation and shortages, I never felt unsafe in fact the first thing I noticed was that many Cubans would sit on a public bench and count a huge wad of bills (pesos devalued by inflation). Clearly no one is robbing them. Most folks that I encountered were always helpful and genuinely surprised and thankful when I tried to "tip them" in gratitude - especially away from the tourist areas. (I did get scolded by a barber in Varadero when I tried to pay in pesos). Most of the breakfasts that I was served in private Casa's were ridiculously generous and impossible for me to consume in one meal. Yes, I did see long line ups everywhere for everything but on the other hand it seemed that many people had nothing to do all day but sit and watch the world go by. I wish that my Spanish listening skills were better as there were many aspects of daily life that I simply didn't understand - for example most people live in a simple shack but all wear designer clothing and jewelry. Drivers were generally very respectful of cyclists and pedestrians. In some areas, sleep was challenging with crowing roosters and barking dogs - I had brought some foam earplugs but they weren't very good. Next time, I'll make sure that I have the best ones I can buy. What I hadn't planned for was the intense heat. The first 2 weeks in the East were 32/33C and scorching hot on barren paved roads without shade. Also impossible to find bottled water away from major cities so I decided to stock up when could and haul the extra 10 pounds just to have clean water. By the time I got to Bay of Pigs area, the temperature was more moderate 26C and water easy to find so much easier for cycling. Varadero was downright cold at 21C the first day. It's such a beautiful country and I saw colonial cities, simple towns and villages, mountains, fields and some perfect beaches and ocean swimming conditions. Same with the people - most were happy and friendly, many of them cheering me on. A farmer stood in his horse drawn cart and gave me a standing ovation. By the end of the 3 weeks, I felt strong and fit but was getting tired of the constant planning and uncertainty so decided that it was time to go home.

As soon as I landed, I longed to go back.

CubanWaters

Glad you could join Eddy.

I am a daily bike rider but I could not handle the distances that you covered. I have only peddled around Havana as far as biking in Cuba goes. I think that Havana was the only city in Cuba where I have ever seen bike rental shops.

One of the main reasons that I have travelled to Cuba so many times and so little to other Caribbean destinations is the safety factor. It's worth it's value in gold.

I found the opposite of your thoughts on drivers. In Cuba, at least in the cities, they do not seem to like slowing down for pedestrians crossing the road.

Yeah it is hard to get a good might's sleep when there is no glass window. I hope that you had A/C at each stop.

Was this your first trip to Cuba? When will you return and would it be another biking trip? What places were the highlights of your trip?

Thanks for your report and observations.

Cuba es unica!

TorontoEddy

CW, yes cycling is a curious thing as I often dread the thought of spending 6+ hours on a bike but as with so many things in life, once you start you find yourself just doing it and quite often enjoying it. By the end of my 3 weeks I felt much stronger than I've been in years - sitting in front of a computer (for work) all day is very unhealthy.

Regarding the drivers, compared to rural Ontario drivers Cubans are generally more considerate and most will give the horn a little toot to let you know they are approaching. Also most will pass you in the opposite lane to give you 2-3 meters extra room. Yes, some did not do that and passed within 1 meter at 80-100 Km/hr but I often get that in Canada but even worse when young men enjoy blaring their horn right when they pass you just for fun. Or their big dog hanging his head out the window and barking loudly at the last second. I encountered no Cubans displaying that sort of mischievous behavior.

Yes to A/C. I was offered a private Casa room in Cueto but there was no A/C and it seemed even hotter in there than in the sun. I did always have AC but the last week from Playa Giron to Varadero it was quite cool so didn't need it.

I've been to Cuba 10+ times before but mostly stayed at Hotels in Varadero, Cayo Coco and Cayo Santa Maria. 10 years ago we rented a car in Varadero and drove to Havana for 1 night and stayed in a Private Casa. Every time we drive from the airport to the resorts we vow that we want to see more of the "real Cuba" so that's what I did and it was great. Being 65 years old, I'm a bit fussy on where I want to sleep so I did cheat a bit and spend about half the nights at good hotels. Yes, I would do it again and hopefully ride even further - I've never been West of Havana so that is a target as well as Baracoa which I decided to cut from the trip. Trinidad as well so yes many more trips required!

I think the highlight for me was Playa Giron. It's beautiful and quiet and lots of great swimming nearby. I think I would like to stay there for 1-2 weeks in the winter. For some reason I liked Bayamo, probably because it's clean and peaceful and quiet.

I might now be addicted to cycle touring so lately researching for the proper bike and next destination. Croatia looks beautiful and affordable and perhaps Greece as well. But Cuba is so easy as it's a 3 hour flight from Toronto and Westjet allows a bike box for free.

Eddy

Wessislander

Our only escapades on bicycles in Cuba have been resort bikes - enough said.
I am curious what type of bicycle you rode around Cuba with.
Enjoyed your report. Thanks.

TorontoEddy

Wess,

I'll post some pics when the forum allows me but I rode a 1997 Marin San Anselmo Aluminum Hybrid with flat handlebars and front suspension. I installed a new chain and 700 x 35mm Panaracer Ribmo Gravel/road tires that were perfect as even the gravel that I rode on was dry. Had it been muddy, it did carry a spare knobby tire but I never needed it. I carried everything in the 2 Ortlieb panniers on the back carrier rack and had a small pouch on the front stem for my phone, cash and morning snack. The bike was a 24 speed with a good range of gear selection so ultimately it served me very well but my hands and shoulders would get numb or hurt after an hour riding each day so I'm shopping for a proper touring or endurance bike for my next tour. That bike served me well for 26 years so I donated it through an organization called "bikes for cuba" and hopefully someone there can get good use of it.

CubanWaters

I have been all over Cuba and have stayed in Bayamo a few times but but never to Playa Giron.
Bayamo is as exactly as you describe it "clean and peaceful and quiet".
It was my stopover place from Holguin to Santiago.
I haven't been there in a few years now. Possibly the last time was when we met up with Johnabbottsbord and his missus.

Yeah, I'm a bit fussy about accommodations too.
I stayed in hotels on my latest Cuba trip; Travelling Across Cuba 2024

Johnabbotsford

Thanks for your reports that I enjoyed vicariously.
Personally well beyond that sort of endurance riding.
i recently put my bike outside my house to be taken away as have become too lazy (and scared of car traffic) to even ride locally here in Oz.
Also thanks CW for the Bayamo memories again.

Wessislander

Good to read that bicycles are being given away instead of collecting rust somewhere. I have read that the fee for transporting a bike to Cuba has gone up considerably (just like everything else) although I guess that also depends on which airline.

CubanWaters

Just saw this for Sunwing
I wonder if the other CDN airlines have followed suit.

CubanWaters

Bravo!

The Carretera Granma: One of the most spectacular drives in Cuba