NaxosTravels

Hello,

I have been getting lots of helpful tips and feedback from this forum -please bear with me as we pull together a workable itinerary at last!

I like to get a sense of what we can reasonably accomplish without feeling rushed (or bored)....so any feedback on our locals, where to best spend our time, what to lose, what to keep and how long to stay here or there would be great for us to ponder and debate.

FYI, our flights to Glasgow and home from London are booked and paid for, as is our flight from Glasgow to Dubrovnik (though in hindsight I really wished I'd added an extra buffer day in Scotland - right now we have 24hrs/1 overnight in Glasgow). Our flight back to London is not yet booked.

Our current 6 week itinerary is as follows (see day trips in brackets):

Fly to Glasgow
1 x Glasgow
5 x Dubrovnik (Fly to Dubrovnik, Lopud, Ston/Mali Ston, Mostar)
3 x Kotor (Stari Bar, Budva)
3 x Trogir (Split, Krka Waterfall Park, Primosten)
3 x Zadar (Pag Island)
1 x Pltivice
6 x Pula (Rovinj, Porec, Labin, Motovun, Vodnjan)
4 x Ljubljana (Skocjan/ Postojna Caves, Velika Planina)
3 x Bled (Skofja Loka, Radovljica)
3 x Graz (Riegersburg, Burg Hochosterwitz)
4 x Hall in Tirol (Salzburg, Werfen, Swarovski Crystal Exhibit)
2 x Cesky Krumlov
5 x Prague (Kunta Hora, Karlstejn Castle)
1 x London (Fly to London)
Fly Home

Well 10 guidebooks and endless internet searching and that is what we have come up with. Of course as with any itinerary we've made numerous trade offs and wonder if all of them are the best selection.
Most notably we've moved around that Split/Zadar section at least a dozen times stealing days - putting them back....

I've toyed with stealing a day somewhere for another night in London on the way home but....my partner has never been and somehow it feels like too much city to even enjoy in 2 nights...? do you think one night is too risky as far as a buffer before our return home flight?

I should also note we are traveling entirely by public transport this trip - so that is reflected in some of the pacing.

Cheers,
Naxos

unclegus

I can only comment on the czech republic part of your trip and 5 days seems just about right.
Karlstejn castle is only about 30 minutes away by train and Kutna Hora about an hour away.Karlstejn is really a half day trip ,but there is some interesting walks in the area and some lovely bars/cafes and resturants in the town.
I did a posting about Kutna Hora a short while ago that should give you a bit of info.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2
hopefully this is the right link to it.

unclegus

the link is wrong so here it is cut and pasted.
Author: unclegus
Date: 10/09/2008, 12:37 pm
I have visited Kutna Hora twice,it is a lovley little town and only an hour from Prague by train.
the main station in Kutna Hora is about 3 kilometers from the main town but there is a local train to take you nearer.
If you want to visit the Bone church at Sedlac just go out the main train station to your right and walk to the main road ,you have to turn left on to it.walk along the main road passing a cigarette factory (Philip Morris I think) and you will come to a main crossroads with a large church on your left hand side.Take the junction to the right and about 150 meters up this road is the Bone church. Total walk is about 1 kilometer (10-12 minutes).Be aware it is often closed at lunchtime over the winter period.
http://www.kostnice.cz/
The main town of Kutna Hora is a straight walk of 2 Kilometers (20-30 minutes) but there are local buses to get you there.there are yellow markings on the pavement showing you direction and distance.
In Kutna Hora itself is a wonderful Italian Court Building which you can arrange a tour of,there is a silvermine and museum and the lovely St Barbara's cathedral.There are some lovely little streets to walk along and some fine bars/resturants for a drink and a meal.
it is a place I would highly recommend.
http://www.kutnahora.cz/index.php?lns=en
This website will give you info on trains
http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusy/spojeni/
go for a direct train ,they run about every hour ,take an hour and are very cheap,i think my last trip was about 115czk return and that was paying a little extra for first class.

annhig

Hi Naxos,

have you thought about giving yourselves any down-time anywhere? all that traveling is very tiring and by the time you get to Pula, you'll need a rest.

I would factor in one, possibly two quite long stays where you can just bem rather than do all the time.

regards, ann

NaxosTravels

Thanks unclegus! That is really helpful info regarding Kunta Hora and Karstjan Castle - I will print this off for further use. I checked out the links you provided and thankfully the church appears to be open April-October so we should be safe.

Hi Annhig, Very good point about rest time - my partner especially likes a slow pace. I really tried to balance beach time with little activities - half day wandering a village, half day at the beach - that kind of thing. But I do see some potential areas for increasing rest time - I can take a day from Split and add it to Zadar and make that another no plans beach day and that breaks up some shorter stays with a 4 day block...I can also consider not splitting up our time between Bled and Ljubljana and just staying put - that takes out a hotel move. I have a pull to see Bled at night though so that accounts for the current split. Definatley food for thought! Thanks

Naxos

travel2live2

Naxos, great to see your entire itinerary! I've been every single place you mention but two and really like your plans. It is ambitious but it sounds like you travel like us - we go hard! When we vacation we do not sit around but like to see and do all we can.

However, an unplanned day here and there doesn't hurt - nice for spontaneity.

The only wee thing I would personally do differently is perhaps not base in Pula. Whilst it is interesting for half a day it lacks much of the charm and character of other places. However, the location is great for exploring the surrounding areas. You may find Motovun to be overrun by tour buses. I would highly recommend a couple of other hilltowns instead of (or in addition to) Motovun like Hum (teeny tiny and gorgeous), Bale, Groznjan, Grascice, Draguc. There is nothing at all wrong with Motovun - it really is lovely but can get really busy. But if you are there for an evening it will be lots quieter.

If I recall correctly you are going in September? If so, by the time you get to Istria it may be truffle season. Also be on the lookout for roadside spit grills (succulent lamb and pork) as well as fresh food stands with local cheeses, wines, olive oils, etc.

Glad you are spending two nights in Cesky Krumlov. It is a delight, especially early a.m. and evening (as most places when daytrippers have left). It is tiny and such a pleasure to explore with some really interesting restaurants.

I absolutely cannot wait to hear more about your adventure!

NaxosTravels

Hey thanks travel2live2 - you've given us some great feedback as we plan! I really want to do a detailed trip report this time around as this is a special trip for us - and I am shameless about sharing pictures with people! I am so interested that you have been everywhere on our itinerary but 2 places! Out of curiosity - which two?

I am as Annhig pointed out, a bit concerned my wife will not enjoy this pace of travel - she SAYS she is ok with it but... having met her, I worry I should add another lounge about day. If you were going to take away a day and add beach time somewhere - where would you do it?

Cheers,
Naxos

NaxosTravels

Oh Wait! Also - travel2live your totally right about Pula - I only chose it because it seems to have the best bus connections (romantic eh?) and it has a hostel (even more romantic) - I'd love to base perhaps in Porec or Rovnij....has anyone experienced bus travel in Istria? We are set on traveling by public transport so that is a must work with factor.

Thanks! Naxos

travel2live2

Naxos, I have not been to Bled or Graz YET but definitely do plan on it! Oh, and I have not been to the Crystal Exhibit.

OK - if I were to add a beach day I would do Mljet (my very favourite - it is thick with trees - I think I told you this already, though). Vis is my second favourite but for ease of transportation and such I would also consider Lokrum from Dubrovnik - very close and easy and pretty. A very good take-it-easy-day-trip spot.

Don't forget that seafood in Croatia (especially Dubrovnik) can be pricey. Very, very delicious, though. If you are interested in foods to try, restaurants, etc. just let us know and we'll try to help. See? Once you get me started on Croatia (well, Europe in general) I just cannot SHUT UP!

I sort of thought so re Pula. But it is central. Sorry - I have no experience with public transportation in Croatia. Porec and Rovinj are both glorious and will be less crowded in September. Our house is actually only 20 minutes from Porec, way off the beaten path, very rural and idyllic. I still have to pinch myself as I cannot believe we will eventually be living there, surrounded by such sublime scenery and gorgeousness!!

annhig

hi again, naxos,

we went to Bled on our honeymoon

a very long time ago :-<

and Dubrovinik too or rather a place just south of there called Cavtat, which I think might fit the bill for your other half. it was easy to get into Dubrovnik by local bus and i have fond memories of the area generally. it had beaches and a harbour and was generally a very nice relaxing place.

as for Bled, yes the setting is gorgeous. I seem to remember that we did a day trip to Plitvice from there, so you might not need a separate night there.

However, everything above has to come with the warning that we were there in the time of tito ! so it might have changed just a bit.

happy planning,

regards, ann

julia_t

It sounds like a busy itinerary, but achievable. Glad you have finally got it more or less sorted!

When exactly are you going? I ask because I will be back in Dubrovnik early in October (3rd time for me now!).

There are some really good fish restaurants in Dubrovnik, not necesarily on the beaten track. One is Rosarij, a short(ish) flight of stairs up off the Stradun, tucked away around a corner of Zlatarska, by a seldom used chapel, but serves delicious fresh fish and good local wines, it is well worth a visit. If you go, tell Ranko that Julia said to come and see you!

I can also recommend a little restaurant up in the hills above Cavtat, if you have the time and the transport to get there. They serve lamb under the bell (it is cooked slowly overnight in a clay oven) and is absolutely wonderful, eaten on the terrace with views over the sea and hills. I think it is Konavle Komin, but can confirm it for you later if you think you might be able to get there.

Also worth doing is going up to the top of Mt Srd above Dubrovnik for some fantastic pictures of the Old Town. A bit scary to drive yourself maybe, but do get a taxi otherwise. What made it really real for me was being told by my driver where he and his contemporaries had tried to fight off the Serb forces on the mountain, and then being shown where his best friend from childhood had been killed in the conflict and was buried. (My driver had himself been wounded at the time.) And later going to the Room of the Defenders of Dubrovnik and seeing the photographs of all these beautiful young men who had died in defending their beloved city it made a huge impact on me.

I almost hesitate to post these links, but they made an impression on me (they still make me weep), but in some strange way they have really made my trips to Dubrovnik more fulfilling because I now have so much more of an appreciation for the people, what they went through and how they endured a difficult time few of us will ever know, and how they have survived and rebuilt into the present day with few visible signs of the damage suffered only 16 years ago. It is truly a testament to human nature.

Watch them, and I promise you it will enhance you appreciation of this beautiful city when you visit.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=sU0JPXUmg44

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=LWmt4G...eature=related

NaxosTravels

Thanks travel2live2 - Mljet - yes, I believe you've mentioned it...I would love an extra lounge day in Dubrovnik so perhaps that will find its way into the plan! We will definatley check out the seafood - I heard that Ston also has particulary good fare. I remember seeing here that you purchased a home in Croatia - good for you! I really admire people who go after dreams and lifestyle like that - its fantastic - you must be so excited.

Annhig - you did a daytrip all the way from Bled to Plitvice?! Holy crow that seems incredibly far -no? Its alway amazing the kind of ground you can cover in Europe though.

Julia - OMG! How tragic and sad - I think I will remeber these video's on our trip and pause in gratful reflection. I've jotted down you restaurant suggestions too - thanks!