As you drive from the vast, sagebrush-dotted desert near Great Basin National Park’s entrance into the cool alpine forests at the top of its signature scenic drive, you travel only a little more than 10 miles. But the change is so drastic it's like you've been transported to the Rocky Mountains, hundreds of miles away. That’s a big part of why this little gem of a park exists.

Created in 1986, it preserves and highlights a sample of the incredible diversity found in the Great Basin, a gigantic arid region that spans almost all of Nevada and reaches into Utah, Oregon, California, Idaho, and Wyoming. The Lehman Caves, located in the heart of the park, went from a private tourist attraction to a national monument in 1922 until being folded into the new national park a few generations later.

Great Basin’s founding came after decades of wrangling between the National Park Service, the U.S. Forest Service, local ranchers, White Pine County, and various politicians, whose compromises eventually led to the park being much smaller than originally proposed. At about 77,000 acres, it’s just a sliver of the size of better-known parks like Grand Canyon and Yellowstone and gets a much smaller share of visitors, as well.

Still, those who do make the trek to Great Basin—hours from any big city in every direction—find a lot to do while surrounded by the quiet desert. Daily cave tours are one of the biggest draws, especially for families, with tickets so popular they can sell out months in advance. At night, the famously dark skies offset a sea of bright stars, and rangers lead astronomy talks and share telescopes with the public several times a week in the high season (and even host a festival in the fall). Camping and hiking are also huge, with trails to fit pretty much every ability level. Modest walks can get you to alpine lakes or a grove of bristlecone pines, some of the oldest organisms on earth. Longer, more strenuous hikes take you deep into the backcountry or the craggy top of Wheeler Peak. At more than 13,000 feet, it’s the second-highest mountain in the state.

Visiting Great Basin is a rustic experience, with few amenities, little cell service, and just a speck of a town nearby. But for those in search of an earthy solitude, it’s a much-needed escape from the rest of the world, and draws a certain kind of visitor back year after year.