Covering an area of approximately 40 square miles, Florence is less than one tenth the size of Rome. Much of the historic center has been fully or partially pedestrianized, so you can (and should plan to) walk just about everywhere. There are buses, trams, and taxis, but because of the one-way streets and other traffic restrictions, you can usually get to your destination just as fast on foot. You really only need to use a car or train to get out of the city.

As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is famous for incredible art museums like the Galleria degli Uffizi and the Galleria dell’Accademia, which contain some of the greatest masterpieces ever created, but don’t underestimate how much else there is to see and do. From Palazzo Pitti (the Medici family’s royal palace) and the Bargello to the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo and beautiful gardens like Boboli and Bardini, the city holds countless treasures. Oh, and don’t neglect the churches, some of which contain incredible frescoes and statues by the likes of Michelangelo and Giotto.

You’ve likely heard about bistecca alla Fiorentina, the famous T-bone steaks made with Chianina beef, but Tuscan cuisine is brimming with regional specialties you won’t find elsewhere in Italy. While there are plenty of meat-based dishes like wild boar ragù and lampredotto (sandwiches made with tripe), vegetarians will find tasty options like ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, panzanella, and pici. Also, be sure to try sweet treats like budino di riso (a pastry filled with rice pudding) and cantucci with vin santo.

Want to buy Florence’s famed leather goods? Be careful what you pay for. The stalls at the Mercato di San Lorenzo mostly sell fake leather and cheap souvenirs; you’ll also definitely want to avoid the hawkers selling fake designer bags on the streets. Seek out genuine artisan shops instead, like the Scuola del Cuoio, Cellerini, and Furò e Punteruolo. There are also artisan jewelers, stationary shops, book binders, and even mosaic workshops.

Most of Florence’s main attractions are concentrated on the northern side of the Arno River—and so are the tourist crowds. For a bit of a respite, and to see a more laid-back and authentic side of the city, cross the Arno and spend some time exploring the Oltrarno. The area is full of independent boutiques, artisans’ studios, vintage shops, and great restaurants and bars. It’s also home to Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens.