Fodor's Expert Review Emeril's Delmonico

Chef Emeril Lagasse bought the century-old Delmonico restaurant in 1998 and converted it into a large, extravagant restaurant serving some of the most ambitious reinterpretations of classic Creole dishes in town. Prime dry-aged steaks with traditional sauces have emerged as a specialty in recent years, but the menu gets more ambitious by the month. The atmosphere is lush, with high-ceiling dining spaces swathed in upholstered walls and super-thick window fabrics, and the food is decadent. House-cured charcuterie is a reliable option, as is the crisp duck leg confit, smothered pork chop, and stuffed boudin balls. "Plush" and "polish" are the bywords here, and the service is exemplary.