Fodor's Expert Review Duende

Duende, that irresistible magnetic force radiated by a performer to transport an audience, is precisely what two Michelin–star chef Nicolas Fontaine (channeling Pierre Gagnaire who designed the menus) conjures in the dining room of the Art Deco–era Hotel L'Imperator. A sophisticated spot to be sure, but it's also expressive of Nîmes's earthy, independent spirit in dishes that pair the exotic with the local: Mediterranean jumbo shrimp à l'Amontillado with local Camargue rice and mango in a passion fruit emulsion or a butter-poached catch of the day with camus artichokes, green olives, and a parsley-anchovy sauce. Lamb comes from the nearby Alpilles, and produce is sourced from the Gard's top organic farmers.