Fodor's Expert Review Bad Roman

Set on the third floor of the Deutsche Bank center at Columbus Circle, and one floor down from the temple of haute cuisine, Per Se, this irreverent, playful, maximalist, authentic, inauthentic, and just plain fun Italian restaurant is not bad at all; in fact it's very, very good. Any illusions that this is a traditional and polite Italian dining experience are left at the door where you are met with a half-ton wild boar statue wearing a neon necklace and a dining room that is a feast of color and texture with red and white travertine, trompe l'oeil mosaics, and lush greenery suspended from wood coffered ceilings above orange banquettes. The bar is clad with marble and mirror, there's a working fountain by the bathroom, and floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of Central Park (not that you'll notice.) Yes, there's food, too, and it lives up to the stage set by the design with delicious riffs on classic Italian food. Highlights include a filet mignon meatball small plate, filet mignon topped with cacio e pepe raviolo, a broiled two-pound lobster with a mound of Calabrian pasta between the claws (to share), and tiramisu ice-cream cake. Cocktails are creative and the crowd is here to play.