Squeezed between high mountains and the sea, the ribbon of coastline known as the Costiera Amalfitana (Amalfi Coast) has been a tourist destination since Roman times. The towns of Positano and Amalfi get the lion’s share of visitors and offer five-star hotels, beach clubs, and myriad souvenir shops. But there are 13 localities in total along the shore or clinging to the cliffside. Explore as many as you can, from Cetara—a fishing village famous for its umami-rich anchovy paste—to Vietri sul Mare, the home of the coast’s eye-popping ceramic production.

The biggest mistake travelers make on the Amalfi Coast is sticking to the water’s edge. Turn your back on the sea and head upwards for nature-rich walking paths, lemon cultivations, and mountain villages. Hike the vertiginous Path of the Gods for sensational views, the Path of the Lemons to duck beneath fruit-laden trees, and wind through pocket-sized towns and the Valle delle Ferriere for eerie ruined paper mills deep in the forest and a lush nature reserve.

One of the Amalfi Coast’s most important products is lemons; there’s even a specific variety called the sfusato Amalfitano popular here. The terraced cultivations that once striated the hillsides along the coastline are being rapidly abandoned as jobs in tourism become more appealing than manual agriculture. Visit the Aceto family lemon farm to see the ancient practice in action and look out for products and dishes containing lemons in shops and restaurants: limoncello liqueur, pasta with lemons, or the creamy delizia al limone dessert.

The Amalfi Coast is overrun with visitors in summer, but, being in the south of Italy, it has temperate and sunny weather from around mid-May until October. Instead of pegging it as a summer vacation, think about travelling to the coastline in the shoulder seasons for better hiking weather, fewer crowds, and more affordable prices. You’ll have more accommodation options—the likes of which get snapped up at lightning speed in the summer—and you can be more spontaneous as restaurants and other activities are less likely to need booking in advance.

Hemmed in by mountains, the Amalfi Coast poses some logistical challenges. Travelers arriving at Naples airport need to take a nearly two-hour private transfer or trains and buses to reach the coastline. If you choose to hire a car, be aware that the coastal road is serpentine, narrow, and heavily trafficked by zippy scooters, lumbering lorries, and public buses. It is cheaper and less stressful to use the buses to get around, just be aware you might have to flag them down if you’re boarding from a roadside stop not a bus station. Built on cliff faces, the towns of the Amalfi Coast are woven through with steep staircases—the only access route to most properties unless they are on one of the few roads. Opt for comfortable shoes and a light bag if climbing these steps will be the last leg of your journey.