Fodor's Expert Review Altura

A hand-carved cedar angel statue watches over diners at this lively spot, where chef-owner Nathan Lockwood lends a Northwest focus to seasonal Italian cuisine. The set tasting menu weaves rare, intriguing, and fascinating local and global ingredients into classic Italian techniques. Finger limes dot starters, Hokkaido scallops come lightly seared, and huckleberries pop up in pappardelle. The five to seven courses come interspersed with little bites and extra treats. Those wishing for a beverage pairing can choose between the classic wine pairing and a mixed option of cocktails, beers, and juices. Service is hyper-solicitous but the atmosphere is louder and more lively than you might expect given the price tag. For a more casual meal, head across the street to Lockwood's sibling spot Carrello.